pbriggs8

Thanks for the comment. For photos, you could use the same basic setup with no backlighting and using fluourescent spotlights from the side. If you are photographing lots of 4x6 photos, though, I would use a photo scanner & VueScan. You can scan four 4x6 photos at a time, and VueScan will create separate files for each of them. Once set up, you can scan photos using this method very quickly.

Please carefully review all of my Instructables that involve drawers. As I've made more cabinets and drawers, I've included more information in the Instructables. The basic process is to lay the cabinet sides side by side on a table and then drawer a line across both pieces at the same time to locate the position of the bottom of the drawer slides. Then nail and glue a 1-1/2" drawer slide support at each locating line. Then attach the outer drawer slides before assembling the cabinet. Please read through all of my cabinet/drawer instructables, and if you still have a question, please let me know. Thanks, Paul

Yes, unfortunately, the Tom's booklet is no longer available. Tom's drawer design is basically the same as what I describe in this and other instructables (except that I use pocket holes and Tom used glue/nails). If you have a specific question about the drawer design, please let me know and I will try to answer it.

See also this Instructable for more pics/info about how to lay out the locations of the drawer slides.//www.sledutah.com/Workbench-With-Drawers-Power-and-Wood-Vise/

Please see this Instructable for more detail on how to lay out the slides on both pieces: //www.sledutah.com/Workbench-With-Drawers-in-5-Days/ In my experience, pocket holes have worked just fine. I don't know if they are stronger than nails and glue, but I haven't had one come apart on me yet and I've made over 100 drawers (some of them very wide and deep drawers).

Hello Twatson - You do NOT need to cut full sheets in half. The original design uses full sheets. It is a lot easier for one person to assemble the cart, though, if the sheets are cut in half. If you have a helper, the cart will be sturdier if you use full sheets.

Leathaldose - It might. Check out the links referenced in Step 3 for Mr. Schrunk's design, and then modify as appropriate.

Stawbs123 - There is an exit path for the exhaust air in the lower rear of the cart. You can see it in one of the pics in Step 3.

PadraigC - Looks great! It will hold a lot of wood!Paul

Hello PadraigC,The small storage slots were on the first version that I built for myself (see the other instructable). I did not reduce the width; however, I did add two 2 x 6 x 8 supports under the base to reduce the sagging. I did this to both carts, and it they seem to work fine. Without the supports though, my first cart sagged by about 1/2" in the middle as I recall. Would you please post pics when you are through?Paul

Thanks for posting the photo. I would be concerned that a 5/16" thick countertop would not be sturdy enough and might be subject to flexing, splitting, or cracking. I've never tried the glaze coat finish, though, and maybe that provides extra protection for the long term. Your finished project looks great!

The strips do not look like they are 5/16" wide. Can you post a closeup photo showing the 5/16" strips?

When you start working on it, let me know. I've been trying to think of better ways to cut out the dividers. I cut these dividers by hand using a circular saw and it was a pain because of the difficulty of making a 5 degree angle cut on a small piece of wood. The original plans included directions for making a jig, but that assumes that you have a table saw. The dividers could also be easily cut with a jig saw.

Prior to building this design (from modified plans), I built another one from plans that was very unstable. After it almost fell on me one time, I looked for another design. This one is much more stable, can be moved around a garage or shop as needed, and helps keep your shop much more organized.

LivarC——我认为,两个抽屉底部空间d 5" apart and the two upper drawers were spaced 3" apart. The exact spacing dimensions are not that critical - you decide what dimensions you want to build the drawers. It is important that the bottom drawer slide support be at least 3/16" above the bottom faceplate. This ensures that the bottom drawer will clear the faceplace (even when loaded). The remaining drawer slide supports were then located according to the space available between the upper and lower faceplates - so that the bottom two drawers were equally spaced and approx. 2" taller than the two upper drawers. Whatever spacing you use, you will want to make the actual drawer heights are approx. 3/4" shorter than the support spacing in order to make…

LivarC——我认为,两个抽屉底部空间d 5" apart and the two upper drawers were spaced 3" apart. The exact spacing dimensions are not that critical - you decide what dimensions you want to build the drawers. It is important that the bottom drawer slide support be at least 3/16" above the bottom faceplate. This ensures that the bottom drawer will clear the faceplace (even when loaded). The remaining drawer slide supports were then located according to the space available between the upper and lower faceplates - so that the bottom two drawers were equally spaced and approx. 2" taller than the two upper drawers. Whatever spacing you use, you will want to make the actual drawer heights are approx. 3/4" shorter than the support spacing in order to make sure that you can insert and remove the drawers.

This jigsaw just requires pulling the trigger to start - so all I had to do was tie-wrap the trigger to hold it in the "ON" position. No special hack was needed. I guess I could have used the trigger lock button right next to the trigger to do the same thing, but I didn't.