jbumstead

No problem! It was fun to share some of the first drawings.

That's a cool idea and a great example of digital information can be decoded to do anything!

谢谢你检查一下！

Thanks for checking out the instructable!

Thank you! I am using an Epilog Zing 16 that I won in the Instructable Epilog contest.

Haha, yes. Wooden discs are going to be the next thing. Thanks for your kind words. They definitely inspire me to keep on designing these devices.

Thank you!

Haha, exactly... I really appreciate your scaling example. I'd have to line up these devices along I-70 from Pittsburgh to St. Louis just to store as much information as one CD. Wow. Mass production of wooden discs was never meant to be.

Thanks!

Thanks for your note. I had issues thinking of how to distinguish the rising and falling edges for keeping a clock from the edges in the data. In other words, I needed a way to have an edge indicate when a data read was required that appeared different from the edges of the data hole. I couldn't process the signal well enough to distinguish different edges, so I needed two detectors.

Great point. There is extra time added to translate the stage and the device has to wait to start reading again to let the rest of the row pass. I tried making the data spiral and have the stepper motor constantly translating the stage, but it turned out to be too difficult keeping the data lined up with the sensor.

Thanks!

No problem, thanks for checking it out!

Thanks for your kind note. Make sure to test a single gluestick first, because some don't work as well. See spicychurro's comment below.Another challenge with this design is melting the gluestick. It took forever. Here are some other designs that are easier to implement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3403301https://blog.adafruit.com/2019/01/29/new-guide-glue-stick-fiber-optic-rainbow-circuitplaygroundexpress-makecode-adafruit/

Here is an example: https://hackaday.com/2017/05/15/digitize-your-room-with-lidar/

Thank you for your note. The magnets lock the device at two positions. The magnets are 8mm in diameter and around 2.5mm thick.

您可能是可能的，这取决于荧光团的发射和激发谱。只要发射小于过滤器的截止频率，如果排放光足够强，则可以起作用。

A telecentric lens makes the light rays parallel into the specimen. In a normal lens, the rays generally move out in a fan. This is how light travels in eyes and is what makes objects farther away appear smaller. Telecentric lenses have magnification that is independent of object distance. Here is a nice explanation: https://www.edmundoptics.com/knowledge-center/application-notes/imaging/advantages-of-telecentricity/A telecentric lens is needed in this CT scanner because the algorithm is based on measuring absorption in regions perpendicular to the camera sensor.

Thanks! The timing for each image depended on the lighting. If you are looking to acquire photograph negatives, you won't need a very large depth of field and you can lower the f-number. This will lower the exposure time required. The limiting factor for my setup was actually the time for the camera to stabilize because the mount was not very sturdy. In the end, it probably took 7seconds per photo. Total acquisition was around 5minutes. The lenses used were:Nikon AF Nikkor 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G set to 80mm focal length: https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/28-80mm-g.htmNikon 28mm f/2.8 AI: https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/28mm-f28-ai.htm

超！很高兴听到你将在一些变体上工作。

Great! You can put the magnet anywhere that will move over the hall effect sensor. In the code, you can then add some number of steps for the calibration. You should test to make sure your hall effect sensor is working, because some people have been having some trouble.

Beautiful demo. Thanks for sharing and congratulations!

Beautiful work and great instructions. Voted!

Thanks for your compliments!1. This is a great observation. In this conversation, we need to consider both the source and the imaging optics (i.e. the camera lens). The source is an LED spotlight that is roughly designed to collect the light and direct the light forward. LEDs usually emit over a hemisphere, which makes it challenging to collect the light. The most obvious way to collimate light from an LED is to place the LED at the focal point of a lens. The LED spotlight I used roughly collimates the light using reflective surfaces. What matters is both collecting the light and collimating it. Now onto the imaging optics. There is a trade-off in lateral resolution and depth-of-field. The lower the F-number the higher the lateral resolution (if the system is diffraction limited) and the …

Thanks for your compliments!1. This is a great observation. In this conversation, we need to consider both the source and the imaging optics (i.e. the camera lens). The source is an LED spotlight that is roughly designed to collect the light and direct the light forward. LEDs usually emit over a hemisphere, which makes it challenging to collect the light. The most obvious way to collimate light from an LED is to place the LED at the focal point of a lens. The LED spotlight I used roughly collimates the light using reflective surfaces. What matters is both collecting the light and collimating it. Now onto the imaging optics. There is a trade-off in lateral resolution and depth-of-field. The lower the F-number the higher the lateral resolution (if the system is diffraction limited) and the shallower the depth-of-field. You want the depth-of-field of the imaging system to roughly match the thickness of your object. Otherwise, images acquired from the system appear blurry. By having a higher F-number (i.e. a large depth-of-field), the cone of light incident upon a single pixel on the sensor corresponds to a very specific section in the sample. One can even think of the cone of light resembling a collimated beam over the depth-of-field. The key term for this concept is the Rayleigh range. To make the cone of light reaching the sensor parallel to the optical axis, the imaging optics need to be telecentric. 2. I didn't alter the brightness of the source, but I did adjust the exposure time of the camera. For more opaque objects, less light makes it to the sensor due to scattering and absorption. If absorption were the primary issue, then a brighter source or longer exposure time would help improve the results. However, most objects I imaged were dominated by scattering. So even with more light making it through the object to the sensor, the results did not improve much. I tried leaves and flowers, but had mixed results.

超！I love the start up music. That's a great idea.

谢谢你的照片。看看发生了什么真的很棒！对不起，我忘了回复这个变量。你是对的，这正是它所的。我喜欢3D打印山的想法。我真的希望得到它与激光切割的零件合作，因为它比3d 330万向节目更快。但我可能没有选择在没有额外的3D打印设计功能的情况下工作。或者系统可以是宽容的，但这也是一个挑战。向该视频前进！

First Arduino project, that’s great! I’m glad you learned so much. I shared your progress on my Hackaday. Please let me know if you have an issue with sharing your photos.Not sure about that line for setting up the MIDI and better control of clock for the motor. If you dive into the forums on stepper motors, you will find way more info on how they work and how to get more control of them.I think your issue for the MIDI during the startup is this line:midiNoteOn(0, 57, 127);delayMicroseconds(50);50 microseconds is too short for the note to play. Change it to 5000microseconds to see if that worked. I want to hear that Encounters rift!The mounts still need work. I want them to be more user friendly for the next design. Thanks for sharing all your ideas, suggestions, and questions!

WOW! I am so excited you have made such progress and that you have the device close to working! This is a really tough build and you have pointed out some important details to the construction, so I appreciate you sharing this information with the community. I love the photos. Thank you for sharing them!1. Interesting results with the Hall Effect sensor. Hearing your experience definitely motivates me to switch to the photointerrupt... They make a lot for sense for homing devices, even though the magnets are cool.2. I updated the step in this instructable to inform others to refer to the Adafruit website for how to set up the Music Maker. Thanks for pointing this out.3. Another very useful tip. Is this how you cut the wood too?4. I remember having issues with volume as well, so I primaril…

WOW! I am so excited you have made such progress and that you have the device close to working! This is a really tough build and you have pointed out some important details to the construction, so I appreciate you sharing this information with the community. I love the photos. Thank you for sharing them!1. Interesting results with the Hall Effect sensor. Hearing your experience definitely motivates me to switch to the photointerrupt... They make a lot for sense for homing devices, even though the magnets are cool.2. I updated the step in this instructable to inform others to refer to the Adafruit website for how to set up the Music Maker. Thanks for pointing this out.3. Another very useful tip. Is this how you cut the wood too?4. I remember having issues with volume as well, so I primarily connected my output to external speakers. The music maker has a built in amplifier. Maybe this can be solved in software by making the MIDI note play for a longer time or by increasing the volume in the MIDI command.5. Cool, excited to see a video.6. I had two lasers fail during the build. They are very cheap, so I was happy the failure rate wasn't higher. How was the laser alignment? Did the mounts work well enough?