Moog Light Synth V2




Introduction: Moog Light Synth V2

关于:我一直喜欢把东西拉开 - 这是我再次放回的东西,我有一些问题!

synth是一个脉冲宽度调制振荡器,routed through a light-controlled resonant low pass filter. The "growling" oscillator tonality is supplied via a PWM and an awesome high-resonance low pass filter. The oscillator is controlled via 2 Light dependent resistors (LDR) and gives you the ability to create amazing musical expression. The 10 “keys” give you different tones and allow you to play it like a keyboard

Also included is 2 Hex inverter drones, supplied via a 40106 IC. The 2 two adjustable drone oscillators give this synth three oscillators in total. You also have the ability to turn off the 2 hex inverter drones and just play around with the other oscillator.



Lastly, I have to give a shout out toPete McBennettwho designed this awesome circuit. Check out his YouTube channel here

You can check out the first one I builthere

Step 1: Parts

The Moog Synth

I have designed a PCB for this circuit so all you need to do is to send the gerber files to a PCB manufacturer likeJLCPCB(不是附属)谁将为您打印董事会。使用Eagle和所有文件组合在一起,包括原理图,电路板和格柏文件的所有文件都可以在我的Google Drive中找到

零件清单也可以在我的谷歌drive as an excel file and I have included as a PDF in this Instructable.

The Rest of the Parts:

1.Potentiometer Knobs -eBay

2.回声/混响模块 -eBay

3.. 2 X 50K Potentiomeners (for the echo/reverb module) -eBay

4.10.X momentary switches -Ali Express

5. 2 X SPDT switches -eBay

6. Wire. I like to use computer ribbon cable. you can buy it onAli Expressor just visit a place where e-waste is dumped to get it for free

7. Li-po Battery - eBay. I used an old mobile battery to power the synth. They work great for projects like this and you can get them for free. check out这个'宽松on how to find them and use them

8. Charging and voltage regulator module -eBay

9. Micro USB module -eBay

10.. Water Decal -eBay

11.40mm X 80mm X 10mm length of hard wood (for making the case) - Hardware store


As mentioned in the previous step, you can find the schematic and board (designed in Eagle) in myGoogle drive. If you want to you can play around with these yourself in Eagle. I have also saved the gerber files which is what you need to send to a PCB manufacturer to print the board

I have tried to make the board as small as possible and it has had a few revisions since the initial one that I used so will look different to the images. I've added an LED to indicate on/off and also a switch to turn on/off the drone oscillator plus a few more additions



1.I always start with adding the resistors first to the board. They are usually the lowest part on the board and it makes it easy to do these first. Plus there are a heap of them so it's good to get them out of the way

2. Once I have all the resistors soldered I then work on other low profile parts such as the diodes.

3.. Next I add the IC holders pin headers

4.After that I start to add on the taller components like the capacitors and transistors.

5. Lastly I add in the IC's and give it a test. Adding pin headers makes it pretty easy to test, you just need some female jumper leads and add the components onto the ends of these. It's always good practice to test any circuit you have made before you go the whole way and add it to the build. Nothing worse trying to troubleshoot when there are wires everywhere.

Step 3: About the PCB

The attached image shows the different connections to the PCB and how they are connected to the components. I've also included a glossary below which will help you understand what each of the connections to the PCB are for and what they do.

Out= Audio Out. To be able to hear the synth you will need to connected it to an amplifier or portable speaker. This connection will later be connected to the "in" on the echo Reverb Board


男高音= Drone oscillator, 100K

Oscillator on/off= This is used to turn off the drone oscillator

LED= Power on/off indicator


PWM= 100K trimmer potentiometer. This "tunes" the pulse width modulated oscillator. You'll need to adjust this until you find the sweet spot

LDR1和2= This is where the Light Dependent Resistors are connected.

PWR= 9v power source to run the synth

Single/Multi Control= I added this so you can control the synth from just one potentiometer. You can also use the Tone pot to play around with the sound as well when using the single pot control. This is a lot of fun when you have echo on.

Switch= This turns on & off the single multi control

100K.= This is the potentiometer that controls the synth when one single play

Switch 1= One leg on each of the 10 momentary switches used to play the synth need to be connected together. They are then connected to the "Switch 1" connection on the PCB

Switch 2= Consists of 10 connections, each on needs to be connected to one of the legs on the 10 momentary switches


我对如何找到的回声和混响模块做了一个可以找到的here. It's not really a mod per se, more just now to had the echo pot and what resistor to remove. I won't go through this in much detail here so if you need further instructions, check out the 'ible above.


1.First you'll need to remove one of the SMD resistors (R27). I do this with an exacto knife and it seems to work well each time. Just get the tip of the knife on the side of the resistor and gently pry it up


3.. If you look on the board you will see that along with the 3 solder points for the pot that you just removed, there are 3 others near it. These ones are for controlling echo. You'll need to solder wires onto each of the solder points for reverb and echo control.

4.That's all you need to do for the moment. later on you will need to connect the wires to the each and reverb pots.

Step 5: Creating the Front Panel

To design the panels I usedInkscape, a vector graphics editor which you can download for free! There's a lot of information available on how to use it and I would suggest you do a couple of the basic tutorials to familiarize yourself with the different features if you haven't used it before


There is even an extension that you can download so you can design knob scales easily and simply which you can downloadhere

However, if you don't want to bother learning how to design your own, you can always just use mine which I have attached as a PDF. I have also includes the Inkscape file so you can play around with that as well if you want to.




2. Cut the acrylic panel to the right size. I used a band saw tio do this but you could do it by hand as well. Last time I did this I pre-drilled the holes. However, it makes it very hard to line up the decal so don't worry about pre-drilling.

3.. Next, print the panel design directly onto decal paper and leave to dry for 30 minutes. You can also spray with clear acrylic as well to protect the ink but I didn't bother.

4.Add the water decal to the acrylic by Placing the decal into some warm water and once it start to lift off, carefully slide it onto the acrylic. Ensure everything is lined up right and remove any excess water.

5. Once fully dried, sprayb some clear acrylic paint on the panel and repeat 2 to 3 times.

5. Mark all of the sections with a punch that need to be drilled.

6. Drill out the holes to the right size using a stepped drill piece.

Step 7: Making the Case

用了一些硬木条来制作案例。它用于边缘,可以在任何五金店带来。尺寸为40mm x 10mm x 1000mm



2. Secure the wood with some clamps and run the bit near the top of the wood. Take your time and make sure you keep the dremel nice and straight.

3.. Measure and cut the wood to size. The best way to do this is to just slip in the front panel into the groove of the wood and measure where to make the cuts

4.Before you secure the front panel into the case, paint the top section and inside. When the panels in place it will make it hard to do and you might get paint on the panel. I used some clear stain to highlight the grain in the wood. The reason why you don't paint it all is you need to sand the wood once the case is complete.


6. Clamp and leave to dry for 12 hours.

Step 8: Sanding the Case and Making a Base

Once the glue is dry you can then use a sander to make the edges nice and clean. I also rounded off the top sections which gives it a bit of a softer look.


1.如果你有一个带式砂磨机那么这将是一个easy job. If not, a hand sander will suffice

2. Sand each of the sides of the case until the wood is smooth and level.

3.. To round off the top sides of the case I agauin used to sander. Just rotate the section to be rounded on the sander until you get the desired effect.

BE CAREFUL - Check out the last image to see what I mean. I managed to touch the sander onto the front panel and scratched the name of the synth!

4.To finish, use some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth everything out.


6. Place onto the bottom of the case and add some screws to hold it in place.


8. Un-screw the base and make a little mark on both the base and case so you know which ends go together

Step 9: Adding the Componets to the Front Panel

This is pretty straight forward, just be careful not to scratch the front panel when you are scecuring the components.


1.There are 10 momentary switches to add so you may as well start with these to get them out of the way

2. Next add the pots and the 3 SPDT switches

3.. Then comes the audio socket


Step 10: Adding the Circuits and Battery to the Case

Now that you have the case, panel and PCB's done, it's time to start thinking about connecting everything together. Just before that happens though, you'll need to secure the battery and PCB's to the base of the synth.


1.Lay all of the parts onto the back panel and work out the best place to locate them. For example, if you add the micro USB charging module at the top, then make sure that you locate the battery at the top as well.


3.为了能够为电池充电,您需要在案例的某处添加Micro USB模块。这样做的最简单方法是在案例底部的平面文件中进行一个小剪裁。然后,您可以添加一个小超级少量并将其固定到位。稍后这将连接到充电模块。

Step 11: Connecting Everything Together



2. First thing you should do is complete any soldering that needs to be done. Solder the wires from the echo/reverb module to the relevant pots on the front panel

3.. Next, stick the battery charger and voltage regulator module on top of the battery. If you want more details on how to use this module then I've done an Instructable on this as well which can be foundhere. Wire-up the battery to the module and connect to the on/off switch. Also set the voltage to 9V on the module via the micro pot on the module. You'll need a multimeter to do this

NOTE: The module will always draw a little bit of power so I always connect the on/off switch from the battery to the module. That way you stop the module from drawing power from the battery and draining it over time. it's only a very small amount but it will drain it over a few weeks

4.You'll also need to add a couple wires from the echo/reverb module to the output on the charging module to power it. Also connect the positive and ground from the moog light PCB to the out on the charging module

5. Solder any wires needed to the switches as well. If you are confused at all then reference the image on step 3.

6. Once all of the soldering is done, you can start to connect the pots up to the PCB. Again, reference the image on step 3 for how to orientate the pots.

7. Test to make sure everything is working as it should before closing it up.

NOTE: Remember that you need to set the PWM trimmer pot. To do this, turn on the synth and slowly turn the trimmer pot. Once you hear some sound, push down on one of the buttons until you get a clean, modulated sound.

TIP - if you find that the echo/reverb isn't working, disconnect it from the battery and connect it again. Sometimes they need resetting before they will work.

Step 12: So How Do You Work the Thing!

That's a good question! Turns out luckily that its very easy to play. I'll go through what each of the controls do and some of the quirks that I found that you can play around with as well


1.First lets play around with the 10 keys. make sure that the single/multi pot is turned off

2. Place you fingers over the 2 LDR's and start to play one of the keys. You should get a nice deep growl of a sound. Move your fingers away from the LDR's and the PWM will give you different tones

3.. Turn on the drone synth and you'll get a low drone. play around with the base and tenor until you get the oscillators in sync or close to.

4.现在你可以玩的PMW synth无人机ynth in the background

5. Now turn up to 7 both he reverb and echo and start playing the synth. You will notice the sounds are fatter and have more dimension due to the echo. change the echo length and speed by turning the echo pot

6. Turn the Tune pot to change the pitch of the PMW synth. You can have it play higher or a real deep base low

7.好的 - 所以现在是时候使用单个/多锅来玩。首先打开它。你会听到PMW Synth不断运行。

8. Place your finger's over the PMW and slowly turn the single/multi pot. Give it some echo as well and you'll get some awesome droney sounds coming out of the synth. Now slowly turn the tune pot to change the pitch. Give it a quick turn and the echo will kick in.



11.This is just some basic's to get you started. There is plenty more that this little synth can do - I'll leave it up tp you to experiment and find them

Battery Powered Contest

Battery Powered Contest



    • Battery Powered Contest

      Battery Powered Contest
    • Plywood Challenge

      Plywood Challenge
    • Plastic Contest

      Plastic Contest



    8 hours ago



    1day ago

    Sound like you could make some eeery sounds for Halloween with it. Cool Project. Bought a vinyl album of classical music played on the real MOOG in a charity shop years ago and this sounds a lot like it.


    love this! you got such a great sound of the circuit. The echo & reverb really give it some power as well