Introduction: Live Edge Bar and Floating Shelves
Live Edge Slab - This was a 8/4" thick piece of monkeypod wood. It was about 3' wide.
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Step 1: Cutting Slab to Length
My friend had already built some cabinets for the base. Also, he was planning on installing a brick "backsplash" on the back and right hand side (where the cement board is installed), which gave us a bit of wiggle room. The brick was about 3/4" thick, so we knew we had that much play in our measurements.
After checking all of the measurements more than once we used a straight edge clamped to the slab and a circular saw to cut the slab to length.
Step 2: Cut Slab to Depth
An important part in any build is to test things along the way. In this case we slid the slab onto the cabinets and noticed that the drywall on one edge was not square and needed to be adjusted. We scored a line in the drywall where the slab was hitting with a knife. We then used a saw to cut out the drywall in that spot. The slab is now able to slide into that area and it looks much nicer. Later it will be caulked so that you cannot see any gaps.
Step 4: Installing the Slab
Step 5: Cutting the Floating Shelves
Cutting the live edge floating shelves was very similar to the bar top, but instead of starting with the length, we decided to start with the depth. We marked out a line that had a minimum depth of 12". Again using a 2x4 as a straight edge and a circular saw we cut the slab.
We then cut one end perfectly perpendicular to the line we just cut (by using a framing square to mark a perpendicular line). We then marked out the total length (the distance between the two walls) and cut it to length.
Step 6: Routing/Drilling for Shelf Supports
My friend wanted to have a floating look to his shelves with no visible brackets. To accomplish we used a combination of hidden cleats on the sides with floating shelf hangers in the middle.
The cleats are simply 3/4" square material that is about 8" long. To make a corresponding hole (a.k.a. dado) for them in the shelf we used a router. We took multiple passes using the router until we reached a depth of 3/4". As you can see in the last picture we used a scrap piece of material to check to see if our depth and width were correct.
Next we needed to get electricity to the lights, this was done with a long drill bit that connected the back of the shelf with the routed out channel. We slid the wire through and slid the aluminum channel into place. The aluminum channel will hold the LED light strip as well as a frosted panel to diffuse the light.
As electrical is best left to professionals I will not go into further detail here on how to attach the lights to the house electrical system.
First we struck some level lines on the walls where we wanted the shelves. Then we installed the cleats on the side. The back screws were into a stud, and for the front screws we used drywall anchors.
We then attached the floating shelf hangers onto the wall. They simply screw in using screws that are included in the kit. Then you thread on the hexagonal support.
We wet down the entire surface and then waited for it to dry. This raises the grain on the wood and is a good step to do to ensure that the surface will remain smooth. After it was dry we sanded again using 240 grit.
其中最引人注目的标准ts of any woodworking project is adding finish. We went with the recommended finish by the people at the local lumber yard and it is called Ligna Pronto. It seemed like a very nice oil based finish and it went on easily and had a very dramatic affect. We simply poured it on and spread it around. We waited a few minutes and then wiped off any excess.
No matter what finish you choose make sure to read the directions on the can.
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